Manipur dresses are traditional Indian dresses. Manipur is a state in North-East India with its capital at Imphal. Historically, Manipur was known for producing some of the finest craftsmen and women who created various rich handicrafts and beautiful Manipur dress.
The sartorial traditions of Manipur have influenced the designing trends in India. Manipur has a rich textile industry and many famous designers have taken inspiration from traditional Manipuri designs. Famous Indian designers have made use of ancient embroidery techniques and patterns, especially those found on phanek or sari, for their designs. These techniques include chikonnu, jamdani, kamkhwai, etc.
The dress can be worn by both girls and women; no matter which one they are, the dress will mostly cover them from head to toe. They vary in colour according to what festivals they participate in like Khwai Hangba (Pongal) festival when it’s coloured white, Poram (Makar Sankranti day) when it is coloured yellow, etc.
It’s customary for females to wear this dress whenever they go out. It is also part of the daily attire. A typical Manipuri gown consists of three basic parts:
The materials of the dress are made from cotton and silk, mostly handloom. It is important to maintain the purity and cleanliness of the materials for clothing and accessories worn during certain celebrations and festive occasions.
Also Check: Sikkim Culture
The designs of Manipuri dresses vary, but there are three types:
Some women wear a phanek – a long skirt – with a dupatta – a scarf – draped around their waist or sometimes on their head as an adornment. The phanek is not worn strictly but can be worn on rare occasions depending on the preference of the wearer.
The typical materials used to make Manipur dress are cotton and silk. Silk is used more often than cotton since it is softer, lighter, and regarded as finer fabric. The Manipuri silk industry has been successful in exporting its products across India for more than 100 years now. Handlooms are also popular among people. People buy Handloom dresses directly from sellers who travel throughout the district hawking their merchandise, or they may choose to order it from a sales outlet or dressmaker/tailor of their choice.
The distinctive features of a Manipur dress are its embroidery and its unique detailing. Lace is used as an embellishment to the dress. The lace is also used to cover the neckline or at times, right from above the waist, depending on the design of the gown. The colour of the dress varies from region to region and is reflected in its pattern of exploitation. In some areas, usually away from Imphal city, traditional handloom silk is generally dyed with natural colours such as reds and blue. The colours may also vary depending on the season and festival celebrations for which they would be worn.
Craftsmen and women of Manipur have a history of textile production going back hundreds of years. During this period, they have been producing many different types of textiles such as cotton, silk, cotton-silk blends, embroidered cloths and garments.
The contemporary methods involve the use of cotton spun from locally grown seeds. This practice is still prevalent in village spinning mills. The Kandou Khrewnen tribes from the central part of Manipur are experts in handloom weaving and dyeing. The black stripes represent the tiger’s skin, while the white stripes represent their bones; each design is unique for each tribe.
Different designs exist with different meanings in different villages. The Khasi design, for example, represents honeycomb. Each village has its own unique pattern of the woven stripe pattern.
On special occasions such as weddings, the youth and women wear a richly embroidered sari known as phanek which is draped around their body; it gives a special look and feel to the whole attire and makes them feel regal and royal. The phanek or skirt can be short or long according to personal taste.
Culture and Tradition
The people of Manipur believe that covering oneself from head to toe is a sign of respect for their motherland as well as their elders and those who follow this tradition wear this dress at all times except when they are sleeping or bathing. Men, mostly elder men, wear the traditional Manipuri dress at all times. When they are not wearing it, they keep it in their closets. The dress is normally red or orange for men; pink for young males; white for older females; and white or yellow for unmarried girls.
Different designs exist with different meanings in different villages. The Khasi design, for example, represents honeycomb. Each village has its own unique pattern of the woven stripe pattern.
On special occasions such as weddings, the youth and women wear a richly embroidered sari known as phanek which is draped around their body; it gives a special look and feel to the whole attire and makes them feel regal and royal. The phanek or skirt can be short or long according to personal taste.
The sartorial traditions of Manipur have influenced the designing trends in India. Manipur has a rich textile industry and many famous designers have taken inspiration from traditional Manipuri designs. Famous Indian designers have made use of ancient embroidery techniques and patterns, especially those found on phanek or sari, for their designs. These techniques include chikonnu, jamdani, kamkhwai, etc.
The phrase “phanek peibung” literally means “clothing with no obstruction”. The Manipuri dress code specifies that a woman wears a phanek and a man wears a Kho. Unmarried women wear the phanek in white, widowed wear white with red spots, and married wear it in any colour. Men may choose any colour but must always wear Khoi along with their phanek or they will be fined. Men who do not have the means to buy clothing may borrow from neighbours through a community organisation called “thang-khullen”.